From ancient gold mining to Soviet-era megadams to a contentious border, the Enguri River is witness to some of Georgia's most important history and politics.
Exiles from Abkhazia and South Ossetia have formed soccer teams in Georgia, but their efforts remain informal because FIFA frowns on the politicization of soccer.
The controversy highlights how, in spite of all the geopolitical conflicts that divide them, the post-Soviet peoples are united in their love of the condiment.