A new generation of Azerbaijanis is growing up with no firsthand memory of the land from which their parents were displaced, and which the government vows to take back.
From ancient gold mining to Soviet-era megadams to a contentious border, the Enguri River is witness to some of Georgia's most important history and politics.
Exiles from Abkhazia and South Ossetia have formed soccer teams in Georgia, but their efforts remain informal because FIFA frowns on the politicization of soccer.