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Uzbekistan: Back to the USSR?

Paul Bartlett Jun 19, 2012
image Tashkent's "Diplomatic Shop": Where prices are secrets. (Photo: Paul Bartlett)

In Uzbekistan, it’s sometimes like the Soviet Union never really went away. Walking around downtown Tashkent recently, I spotted a store advertising itself in English as a “Diplomatic Shop.” In the USSR, state-run Beriozka stores sold imported wares and hard-to-find local goods to foreigners in exchange for hard currency to supplement state coffers. Could it be that this Soviet institution had made a comeback in Uzbekistan, some 20 years after the collapse of the Union?Like it’s predecessor, the Diplomatic Shop had well-stocked shelves lined with imported premium-brand liquor and perfume. Payment was accepted in hard currency or by credit card only. But there was a catch – a notice on the door said the goods were only for sale to diplomats or those with Foreign Ministry accreditation to live and work in Uzbekistan (that’s more than just a business visa). Playing the dumb foreigner, I entered the store anyway. The assistant immediately asked to see my diplomatic ID or accreditation card. I came clean, admitting I had no such documents, and asked if I could have a look around.“That's not possible,” replied the assistant. “Could you, for instance, tell me the price of a bottle of wine?” I enquired.“That's a secret.” The question was relevant as Uzbekistan applies notoriously high taxes on imported wine and liquor. An average bottle of foreign wine starts at around 60,000 som ($35) in a shop and about double that in a restaurant. Could it be that the diplomatic corps is being kept happy with subsidized booze, while the Uzbek government rakes in the hard currency? Sounds remarkably like the USSR to me.

Paul Bartlett is a journalist based in Almaty.

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